I didn't have many plans for today. All I wanted to do was go to a temple and meditate for most of the day, to get back into the meditation mind set.
I woke up early (the monk said it was best for health and retaining a certain bodily energy, to wake up before the sun rose). I had intended to wake up at 5am but instead woke at 4.30am. I had a shower then went up to the roof of the hostel. I practiced walking meditation for half an hour until the sun came up, then practiced sitting meditation for just over half an hour.
I went down to have the hostel's breakfast of porridge topped with bananas, then I headed out to the temples.
I caught the usual bus that I take to get me to the 'centre' of the city, or at least the centre for foreigners. But for some reason I got off 4 stops too early. I saw that I was near a temple, not the one I had been shooting for, but a temple nonetheless, so in I went.
I sat on the plush red carpet in the half-lotus position, closed my eyes and began to meditate. I found it very easy to concentrate on my breath, but to my dismay I was startled by noises all around me. I watched as people came into the temple and put money in the donation box. Others put paper money through a wooden skewer-type thing and pushed it into what vaguely resembled a Christmas tree.
Then the monks came in and began chanting. I recognised the chanting from my meditation retreat so I could have joined in, but I prefered to play the ignorant foreigner instead, and save me breath. After chanting was over, one of the senior monks sat on a high chair facing the lay people (us/non-monks). He held up a large fan over his face, with the image of the Buddha, whilst he recited words in Pali - the original language that the Buddhist teachings were recorded in. It took me a while to figure it out, but I guess its as if the monk becomes the Buddha for the time he covers his face with the mask.
*
I walked the distance I would have ordinarily covered on the bus, and went to the temple that I had most often frequented. Inside it was teeming with people. I was so confused (I hadn't yet learnt that this was the day before the Rains Retreat).
As an outsider some of the rituals were so difficult to understand. In one corner of the temple forecourt, people were putting some kind of yellow oil into their bowls then forming a queue, whilst simultaneously holding the bowls high above their heads. They were queuing up behind a long metal column and one by one they poured the oil down the column.
Another ritual involved people taking large silver bowls filled with rice, then spooning the rice into different silver bowls, around a table. In another area, people were buying gifts for the monks. These were large bundles of toothpaste, fizzy drinks, shower gel, umbrellas, biscuits - basic amenities that the monks would use. The people would then offer these gifts to the monks in exchange for blessings from them.
Inside, the temple was full to brimming. I tried to find a seat and when I sat in what looked like a vacant space, I was quickly ushered out by an angry Thai man. People were waiting their turn to sit at the feet of an elderly monk to receive his blessings. The chanting I had witnessed in the first temple was being continued here.
After a while of standing, I decided to move on. I'd heard that there was another temple close-by which gave meditation instruction to foreigners, so I decided to check it out.
To get to the centre, I had to cross a very busy road that was made up of many fast-moving lanes of traffic. Along with me were 2 or 3 Thai people and a few Japanese tourists. We were all looking helplessly at the speeding cars and at each other for at least 5 minutes. In the end, I'd had enough. Using my Cairo-acquired road crossing expertise, I strutted out past all of the other road-crossing wannabes and confidently observed the passing cars. I saw a potential opportunity, and I went for it. The others were hesitant, but in the corner of my eye I saw that they were running after my lead. We got to the middle island, and I felt that they were now watching me, instead of the passing cars. Their road-crossing, slightly suicidal, chaperone. Bang. Next section done, my 'friends' following me. Finally, the last section of road had been traversed. We made it. Thank you Egypt!
I reached the temple I had been seeking. Inside were a group of awkward-looking foreigners. I side stepped them and headed for the masses of Thai people in the temple forecourt. They were making queue after queue for...food! So much food, and it was all free. I wasn't hungry so I contented myself with watching the hungry Thai people. It's actually really nice to watch people's facial reactions to food and eating, without tainting it with your own desire for the food.
My quiet observing didn't last long. Kind Thai people one after another brought me all manner of food. I was overwhelmed by their kindness and generosity.
I woke up early (the monk said it was best for health and retaining a certain bodily energy, to wake up before the sun rose). I had intended to wake up at 5am but instead woke at 4.30am. I had a shower then went up to the roof of the hostel. I practiced walking meditation for half an hour until the sun came up, then practiced sitting meditation for just over half an hour.
I went down to have the hostel's breakfast of porridge topped with bananas, then I headed out to the temples.
I caught the usual bus that I take to get me to the 'centre' of the city, or at least the centre for foreigners. But for some reason I got off 4 stops too early. I saw that I was near a temple, not the one I had been shooting for, but a temple nonetheless, so in I went.
I sat on the plush red carpet in the half-lotus position, closed my eyes and began to meditate. I found it very easy to concentrate on my breath, but to my dismay I was startled by noises all around me. I watched as people came into the temple and put money in the donation box. Others put paper money through a wooden skewer-type thing and pushed it into what vaguely resembled a Christmas tree.
Then the monks came in and began chanting. I recognised the chanting from my meditation retreat so I could have joined in, but I prefered to play the ignorant foreigner instead, and save me breath. After chanting was over, one of the senior monks sat on a high chair facing the lay people (us/non-monks). He held up a large fan over his face, with the image of the Buddha, whilst he recited words in Pali - the original language that the Buddhist teachings were recorded in. It took me a while to figure it out, but I guess its as if the monk becomes the Buddha for the time he covers his face with the mask.
*
I walked the distance I would have ordinarily covered on the bus, and went to the temple that I had most often frequented. Inside it was teeming with people. I was so confused (I hadn't yet learnt that this was the day before the Rains Retreat).
As an outsider some of the rituals were so difficult to understand. In one corner of the temple forecourt, people were putting some kind of yellow oil into their bowls then forming a queue, whilst simultaneously holding the bowls high above their heads. They were queuing up behind a long metal column and one by one they poured the oil down the column.
Another ritual involved people taking large silver bowls filled with rice, then spooning the rice into different silver bowls, around a table. In another area, people were buying gifts for the monks. These were large bundles of toothpaste, fizzy drinks, shower gel, umbrellas, biscuits - basic amenities that the monks would use. The people would then offer these gifts to the monks in exchange for blessings from them.
Inside, the temple was full to brimming. I tried to find a seat and when I sat in what looked like a vacant space, I was quickly ushered out by an angry Thai man. People were waiting their turn to sit at the feet of an elderly monk to receive his blessings. The chanting I had witnessed in the first temple was being continued here.
After a while of standing, I decided to move on. I'd heard that there was another temple close-by which gave meditation instruction to foreigners, so I decided to check it out.
To get to the centre, I had to cross a very busy road that was made up of many fast-moving lanes of traffic. Along with me were 2 or 3 Thai people and a few Japanese tourists. We were all looking helplessly at the speeding cars and at each other for at least 5 minutes. In the end, I'd had enough. Using my Cairo-acquired road crossing expertise, I strutted out past all of the other road-crossing wannabes and confidently observed the passing cars. I saw a potential opportunity, and I went for it. The others were hesitant, but in the corner of my eye I saw that they were running after my lead. We got to the middle island, and I felt that they were now watching me, instead of the passing cars. Their road-crossing, slightly suicidal, chaperone. Bang. Next section done, my 'friends' following me. Finally, the last section of road had been traversed. We made it. Thank you Egypt!
I reached the temple I had been seeking. Inside were a group of awkward-looking foreigners. I side stepped them and headed for the masses of Thai people in the temple forecourt. They were making queue after queue for...food! So much food, and it was all free. I wasn't hungry so I contented myself with watching the hungry Thai people. It's actually really nice to watch people's facial reactions to food and eating, without tainting it with your own desire for the food.
My quiet observing didn't last long. Kind Thai people one after another brought me all manner of food. I was overwhelmed by their kindness and generosity.
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